Tags

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Looking at runways of Milan, NY, Paris and Berlin you unintentionally  plunge into the past. I constantly see those old images, ancient paintings, pictures from the history books and black and white film scenes. Thereby all tendencies listed are based on past times.

NEW TENDENCIES: PAST TIMES

A variety of ideas and inspirations is breathtaking. Among those still life painting prints, 50th cuts, star wars outfits, architecture/mural decoration, wild furs and military looks. Marc Jacobs, PRADA, Balenciaga, Dolce&Gabanna have shown something very new, including extremely bizarre volumes, unexpected prints, oddly forgotten dandy nuances, feminine lines and styles.

Marc Jacobs used inspirations from 1920th, in his own Marc Jacobs as well as in Louis Vuitton collections. New, provocative, cosy but overly oversized silhouettes makes you wonder.. Specially seeing it next to the feminine, still life painting
inspired Baroque collection of Dolce&Gabanna, where flowers and fruits, together with gold and lace recreate looks you might only see in a history book.

PRADA could not resist it to be a high light of a season, after being a brand of key pieces in Summer 2012, it looks like it will continue to dominate most of the fashion shoots in Winter again. There is no runway report, which would not mention its prints. Well, I prefer to comment of a cut and shape, rather than colors, as it is not the prints only which made a collection so extraordinary, it is actually a cut and details, i.e. a feminine tie, which are not new, but definitely rare.

A military theme was very much highlighted in Milan. Italians introduced a whole variety of military inspired looks, combinations and pieces, which turned out to be very close to a real military uniform.
Just as close as Milan got to a military thematics, Balenciaga brought up some clear inspirations from space. Even though it is the most obvious brand which took an inspiration from the sky, it is not the only one, which makes it a new trend, something we have not had for quite some time.

feministic tie

A simple and common male accessory, interpret new creates a competition to a beloved scarfs and makes those pretty little things one of the key must haves in the coming winter – ties.

Missoni, Prada, Miu Miu

Star Wars

One of the future winter trends I call “Star wars”. Pretty excited wether someone else calls it like this and points it out. All you have to do is either wear a print with a cosmic grade, or anything which would remind a spacesuit in form. Balenciaga introduced jumpers 2 i 1, combining both. Chanel made most an accent on a cosmic like make up, and Lanvin worked it through shapes.

Lanvin, Balenciaga, Chanel

Wild ones

Might much of a trend, but rather a must have of a Fall Winter Season – Mr. Furs Looking especially wild and exotic this season. Without rules and guidelines, the furrier the better. Lanvin is unsurprisingly has shown quite an amount of choice and selection. Boss Black has a very decent choice for those who don’t feel like exaggerated wildness is not a priority.

BOSS Black, Mulberry, Fendi, Victor and Rolf, Gucci

Still life painting

 

If you are not so much into star wars, maybe still life painting prints will be more of your thing. Majorly pushed by Dolce&Gabanna and interpreted in all sorts of ways by others. Prints combining with fur creates a new look – Matreshka, as it looks very Russia inspired, introduced by Temperley London.

 

Valentino, Balmain, Dolce&Gabanna, Stella McCartney, Temperley London

 

Peplum

As old as a world, but miraculously popular, in leather, in wool, in silk or cotton, as a top, a dress, a skirt, a coat… Definitely a must have a season, highly copied and offered by mass producers and brands.

Tory Burch, Lanvin, Burberry, Ellie Saab, Dior

 

Military Raid

If an idea of fashion being a main political mirror, then we should expect a martial law this winter. Otherwise how else can you explain such a strong military inspiration coming from Milan runway. Most credits go to Salvatore Ferragamo who took a leading place in a military raid. Is is Milan getting ready to war?

Viktor and Rolf, Temperley London, Salvatore Ferragamo, Rodarte, Ellie Saab

 

Maid Uniform

Maxi length, complete mysteriousness, new sexy. A look can be found in many shows, making it a new tendency.

P.S. Painting goes back to 1896, totally corresponds to the theme back to the past

Valentino, Donna Karan, Dolce&abanna

Lady Dandy

There is always a boy|girl story in every season. We all have ‘boyfriend’ pieces in a wardrobe. Smoking, ties, brogues and other male prerogatives have become a must already a while ago. Coming season is not an exception. From a classy strict american style to a modern english interpretation, a la Dandy, popular again, like in 1938.

 

 

 

Donna Karan, Giorgio Aramani, Hermes, Stella McCartney

 

Lady Babushka

By far the most extravagant and truly new look. Oversized, overplayed, over exaggerated, over dressed. Looks like an old babushka in a cold weather.. Big, layered, with a funny hat and a massive bag, whatever she carries there.. Brought to us by Marc Jacobs, which is easy enough to recognize after seeing his both shows for Louis Vuitton and his own Marc Jacobs. Look which pleasures the eye when seeing it in a fashion magazine, not so sure about seeing it life, unless on Anna Dello Russo..

Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs 

ARCHITECTURE: MURALS

   It must be clear where the trends is coming from: like the rest of them, it comes from the past. Decorations on the wall, which highlighted a wealthy state and an exceptional taste of the owner.

Valentino, Balmain, Rodarte

 

Advertisements