I havn’t been on the THE SARTORIALIST blog for a while and was really looking forward to new inspirations as the new season just started and all fashions weeks just ended…
So it’s a dress up time!
But well, looking through his last 6 pages of posting I have realized that I am starving for fashion, as I have not seen one inspirational outfit but I am sick of… Junkies… 60 per cent of the pictures posted were just junkies .. People with messy untidy hair, chaotic und ugly outfits.. Outfits which look like they have been worn by another 10 junkies before this one was captured by the camera…
And I mean, junkies have always been there, let them be.. But I have never seen such a strong promotion of their image. I have even gone to the THE SARTORIALIST archive, to October 2008 to see the difference. And you know what? There is a major difference, only one junkie there. October 2013 is just a bunch of people who look either very normal-boring, or like they have been travelling in the same outfit for 4 days without a possibility for some fresh up. October 2008 is still a source for new ideas, here is my favorite (on the junkie background)..
It is a very smart commercial project within the fashion apparel world, based on getting maximum profit. Of course a creation of the junkie look requires less quality, it should look just shabby. This “shabby chic” bullshit.. It is easy to be and to follow. You can just wear some unmatching , dirty or old set of canvas, cannot even call it clothes, and the junkie image is complete. It is also important to have a messy hair, insane tattoos. Sure it is naturally easier to have untidy hair, so following has never been easier.
The quality of the apparel goes down, no one is striving for some esthetic look, clean and elegant appearance.. This is also promoted by the advertisement and even high fashion.
These two look very fashionable, don’t they..?
The best high fashion end junkie promoter is Vivienne Westwood. Her SP14 show is the best example. Models with the dirt all over their bodies and even in the face…
This last lady in a crazy maxi skirt print reminds me of a homeless woman, who lives on the rubbish pile, 2 blocks away from my grandma’s house. I swear, her cluttered hair, skirt and an oversized blazer look just like this model.
But London is known for a junkie look. No, not because it is a fashion capital. Because life there is very tuff and expensive, and people travel in a dirty tube for hours daily. After couple years of such live, they just done care what they look like and some confused think they are fashion…
People, clean up your looks, stop abusing my esthetical world perception!
There is a thing LINE between fashionable and ridiculous, stylish and tasteless.. Every day we meet people who have crossed this LINE. My friend calls it ‘eyes cancer’. Well, I do believe that if you look at the tasteless people long and often enough, the diseases might actually get you. Fortunately, it is easy enough to avoid those pictures.
What I find truly unbearable is when the high fashion designers cross that LINE. As firstly, ridiculous and tasteless clothes hurts yours eyes and feelings anyway, whether it is on the street or on the runway. But I find it is even worth, because a bag design brought once on the stage, will follow you everywhere for at least several month, before the season ends. And secondly, it ruins my visual perfect imaginary vogue world. I open my Vogue and bAAMM, horror everywhere. Instead of liking and desiring those pieces I flip through pages in a hope to find something pleasing for the eyes….. and nothing comes, only design failures… ahhhh
So, where is this LINE, and is there any LINE at all? Till what extent are designers allowed to make fools of us? Fashion makes a bit of a fool of you anyway, as when you follow it, you become a victim of someone’s funny fantasies and sometimes even a lack of knowledge and a sense of beauty. People find a word ‘fool’ too harsh and often prefer to use a ‘clown’ words instead, but is it so much better? The most famous fashion lover ever, Anna Dello Russo admits herself, that she does have a role of a clown, as you have to wear whatever comes up and just hope for the best.
Most of the time, those dressings look at least pretty, at least they match to the Vogue and live in a harmony within photo shoots. You would wand those clothes, but of course you don’t have as it is too expensive, too pretty, a bit unpractical and way too fancy. Unfortunately, this season high end luxury fashion has crossed the LINE. Now, those pictures look just as ridiculous in Vogue as they do in live. Look at the last German Vogue shoot. There is only one positive thing about it. It proves, that I spotted all main Fall Winter’12 Trends right. Here you can find Babushka, and Overly Oversized.. additionally comes Harry Porter and couple more creepy figures, who look like druggies, but where is fashion? It is a famine of beauty. And it has only been 1 month only since a new fashion season started. I am desperate. Never I felt so unmotivated to unpack a new Vogue, to flip through runway shoots, to check those ‘favorite looks to copy’ again.
What I find even worse, is that designers feel comfortable enough to do that. Not only they make a world of fashion unattractive activity for amateurs, they seriously shake a passion for fashion of the faithful ones.
There is however still a plus side. There are still couple pretty collections in this immersive failure amount, which is easier to concentrate on and get a spotless look. I also am very excited to see which of this trends are going to be picked up and promoted by the mass suppliers like H&M, Zara or Mango. Those eventually define which trends are wearable and beloved, and which will never take a place in our wardrobes, not to mention our hearts.
To be fair, this is what homeless people look like in the Ukraine..They also have their stuff in those plastic squared bags.. :S
Looking at runways of Milan, NY, Paris and Berlin you unintentionally plunge into the past. I constantly see those old images, ancient paintings, pictures from the history books and black and white film scenes. Thereby all tendencies listed are based on past times.
NEW TENDENCIES: PAST TIMES
A variety of ideas and inspirations is breathtaking. Among those still life painting prints, 50th cuts, star wars outfits, architecture/mural decoration, wild furs and military looks. Marc Jacobs, PRADA, Balenciaga, Dolce&Gabanna have shown something very new, including extremely bizarre volumes, unexpected prints, oddly forgotten dandy nuances, feminine lines and styles.
Marc Jacobs used inspirations from 1920th, in his own Marc Jacobs as well as in Louis Vuitton collections. New, provocative, cosy but overly oversized silhouettes makes you wonder.. Specially seeing it next to the feminine, still life painting inspired Baroque collection of Dolce&Gabanna, where flowers and fruits, together with gold and lace recreate looks you might only see in a history book.
PRADA could not resist it to be a high light of a season, after being a brand of key pieces in Summer 2012, it looks like it will continue to dominate most of the fashion shoots in Winter again. There is no runway report, which would not mention its prints. Well, I prefer to comment of a cut and shape, rather than colors, as it is not the prints only which made a collection so extraordinary, it is actually a cut and details, i.e. a feminine tie, which are not new, but definitely rare.
A military theme was very much highlighted in Milan. Italians introduced a whole variety of military inspired looks, combinations and pieces, which turned out to be very close to a real military uniform.
Just as close as Milan got to a military thematics, Balenciaga brought up some clear inspirations from space. Even though it is the most obvious brand which took an inspiration from the sky, it is not the only one, which makes it a new trend, something we have not had for quite some time.
A simple and common male accessory, interpret new creates a competition to a beloved scarfs and makes those pretty little things one of the key must haves in the coming winter – ties.
Missoni, Prada, Miu Miu
One of the future winter trends I call “Star wars”. Pretty excited wether someone else calls it like this and points it out. All you have to do is either wear a print with a cosmic grade, or anything which would remind a spacesuit in form. Balenciaga introduced jumpers 2 i 1, combining both. Chanel made most an accent on a cosmic like make up, and Lanvin worked it through shapes.
Lanvin, Balenciaga, Chanel
Might much of a trend, but rather a must have of a Fall Winter Season – Mr. Furs Looking especially wild and exotic this season. Without rules and guidelines, the furrier the better. Lanvin is unsurprisingly has shown quite an amount of choice and selection. Boss Black has a very decent choice for those who don’t feel like exaggerated wildness is not a priority.
BOSS Black, Mulberry, Fendi, Victor and Rolf, Gucci
Still life painting
If you are not so much into star wars, maybe still life painting prints will be more of your thing. Majorly pushed by Dolce&Gabanna and interpreted in all sorts of ways by others. Prints combining with fur creates a new look – Matreshka, as it looks very Russia inspired, introduced by Temperley London.
Valentino, Balmain, Dolce&Gabanna, Stella McCartney, Temperley London
As old as a world, but miraculously popular, in leather, in wool, in silk or cotton, as a top, a dress, a skirt, a coat… Definitely a must have a season, highly copied and offered by mass producers and brands.
Tory Burch, Lanvin, Burberry, Ellie Saab, Dior
If an idea of fashion being a main political mirror, then we should expect a martial law this winter. Otherwise how else can you explain such a strong military inspiration coming from Milan runway. Most credits go to Salvatore Ferragamo who took a leading place in a military raid. Is is Milan getting ready to war?
Viktor and Rolf, Temperley London, Salvatore Ferragamo, Rodarte, Ellie Saab
Maxi length, complete mysteriousness, new sexy. A look can be found in many shows, making it a new tendency.
P.S. Painting goes back to 1896, totally corresponds to the theme back to the past
Valentino, Donna Karan, Dolce&abanna
There is always a boy|girl story in every season. We all have ‘boyfriend’ pieces in a wardrobe. Smoking, ties, brogues and other male prerogatives have become a must already a while ago. Coming season is not an exception. From a classy strict american style to a modern english interpretation, a la Dandy, popular again, like in 1938.
Donna Karan, Giorgio Aramani, Hermes, Stella McCartney
By far the most extravagant and truly new look. Oversized, overplayed, over exaggerated, over dressed. Looks like an old babushka in a cold weather.. Big, layered, with a funny hat and a massive bag, whatever she carries there.. Brought to us by Marc Jacobs, which is easy enough to recognize after seeing his both shows for Louis Vuitton and his own Marc Jacobs. Look which pleasures the eye when seeing it in a fashion magazine, not so sure about seeing it life, unless on Anna Dello Russo..
Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs
It must be clear where the trends is coming from: like the rest of them, it comes from the past. Decorations on the wall, which highlighted a wealthy state and an exceptional taste of the owner.
Barcelona is an amazing city with breath taking shopping opportunities. Of course, all are mostly excited about Zara and Mango, since it is a home land of the brands, with endlessss floors of choice. You won’t believe me but I was the most excited about Primark. (Yes, Germany doesn’t have it and I can only shop there when I go to London). God, I missed digging into the piles of t-shirts, those shoes for 5 euros and enormous lines at the cashier. So I took my time today and went shopping, well even though it was all for other people, it is still a fun thing to do (but only occasionally).
After visiting Zara I thought to myself again, that Zara is just an awesome example of how fashion business must be done. Being a trend setter and a trend getter, it produces quite an amount of its own design as well as copies of those we see on runways. I screemed of exctitement two month ago when it launched those Louis Vuitton flower cut tops and pointy shoes, Dolce&Gabbana lace bags and aka Chanel Tweed Jackets in colors. It regularly prints T-shirts with McQueen skulls and Union Jack Flack, a la Westwood. Well, yesterday I was very impressed that they also cought a trend with cats and created their own version of Victoria Beckham’s secondary line. My clients love those oversized cat prints and you gotta love those from Zara. Those dresses and tops are of course a bliss for those who know…
I found those “Prada’s” wedges and “Valentino” dress very pretty and worth having.
Zara has showed its excellent production speed and knowledge in a trend for pastels and neon. Not to mention that THAT leather tote bag appeared in every second fashion blog and was loved by many fashionistas right away. You can argue as much as you want if it is cool, if its quality is descent, but everyone shops there, people wearing real Louis Vuitton and Prada are also customers. I always say –
I dont know about you, but by now, I am pretty bored and tired of VOGUE (ELLE) and it’s summer fashion. Hmm, yes I am.
Reason 1. I have seen all sorts of colors and color combinations, I cannot hear about color blocking anymore, neon, pastels, pleats, white on white, black on black, green on green…
Reason 2. Every time I open VOGUE or ELLE I feel like I have seen ALL those photoshoots… Didn’t they get more clothes, do you keep switching models using the same rack for every shoot? As it just looks like this: Prada Skirt, Prada Bag, Miu Miu Sunglasses, Jil Sander hat with a veil, Prada Shoes, Louis Vuitton see through nightmare bag…Miu Miu something… well that is it! I know all that clothes by now and I even have a feeling I wore, so often I see it.
Reason 3. Jil Sander beanie with a veil is cool, but leave it alone, you ruin the magic
Reason 4. New Fragrance from Roberto Cavalli is everywhere, I already said – it smells like a dill to me, it’s enough, we all know it’s out
Reason 5. Neon colors are already out, they were like 1 month long, and cut.. Stop wearing it people, it hurts my eyes now.
Reason 6. I have read so many articles about parfumes lately.. Why are you so obsessed? It is the best not to smell in summer at all.. It is hot, there is no air, and then you come into the room and smell of Prada Candy.. No, don’t!
Reason 7. Official Fragrance of SS12 (in Germany) is Chloe. You deffinately will find it’s picture or it mentioned as well.. I don’t know why, but it makes me sick when I smell it. Read reason 6.
Reason 8. I want more fashion, where is British and American fashion? Where is Dolce&Gabbana, where are those cruise collections??
Reason 9. What is with those blue nails and pink make up. Get a tan and stay natural, stop painting your face like an indian warrior!
Reason 10. I am very tired of constant H&M collaborations with everyone, creating everything.
Dear Editors! Prada SS12 Collection is very nice, very pretty and is worth attention, however, not a reason to sell your soul to it! Being not t the only one, you have to show some diversity, and yes, that Jil Sander beanie with a veil is amusing, I wear it as well, but get over it, it is not up to date anymore, fashionistas are bored! Get us some new information! Sincerely yours Runway Report.x
As a big auto fan and a big fashion fan I like to combine both. What can be cooler when a pretty girls drives a pretty car. Thinking about that I found this pretty shoot and came up with a list of fashionable accessories (it is all about accessories, because your outfit is a car) I realy need when I drive:
1. Gloves. All races have gloves, which is a bit unpractical when it is hot outside, who cares, I have a pair for that as well. I use fance Boss Orange in winter and short Karl Lagerfed’s in summer.
2. Sunglasses. Nothing is worse when you cannot drive because the sun light is blinding you. Therefore I also have two pair of driving sunglasses, big and dark Prada’s for summer and very light brown Boss Orange for winter.
3. Comfortable shoe wear. No, it should not be those special car loafers, not the most sexy shoe wear, to be fair.. But ladies 120mm Louboutins are pretty when you walk, no one sees them when you drive, so save your heels and dont be lazy to change. I never drive wearing high heels
4. Watch & Bracelets and other hand accessories. I am a bit of an hand/wrist fetishist. I love to have a watch, couple bracelets and I like see those on others. Taken into account that your wrists are practically the only thing which is good visible, you an make an accent on that.
5. Scarfs. Also a way to show off, specially when driving a cabrio, out it over your hair, bright lipstick and you are a queen on the road, but hey, only if you CAN drive!
Bottega Venete announced that it now also has a service, which would stamp two random letters to your bag. Called bag personalisation. You can do it on four sorts of leather and can choose between eight colors. Louis Vuitton among others also have this service.
Personalisation is another way to say, “Hey I also have money to buy it, but I also have time and need to bother and stamp letters on it”. Nowadays you can get your initials on your car nubmer shield, on your suit, jeans have labels to write your name on it, so do nags for children. I had one, because back when we were 8 it was about finding your bag among 30 others and not about showing off. Well it is handy when we have a party, and six girls come over with six identical bags, then it is take us less time to see which is which.. Other than that, why would ruin it?
When walking around with AW on your bag, no one cares whether you are Anna Wintor, Amando Wood or just an Awesome Whore.. Majority would suggest the last though…. It is already good enough you have a pretty bag, no need to stamp yourself…
I have recently expressed my strong disbilieve in H&M Luxury..link A topic many people wrote millions of times.. And I am not the only one, here is a comment to the article I find so good that I share it:
From lovelyritablog (link): Totally spot on! I can’t help laughing when one of my friends goes ‘i’m gonna wear my Lanvin” Sorry, your what? love, you don’t have a Lanvin, you have an H&M, probably designed by some intern at Lanvin, made in a factory who knows where with H&M quality, and you get that after spending like 20 times more than what an H&M dress really costs and queing for hours to fight with 300 hundred more people for a piece of that ‘luxury’ collection. I’m sorry, but i rather spend that time and money in searching in a proper vintage shop for a vintage piece with all the real luxury qualities of Lanvin. Luxury is not just the label, it’s much more than that.
I am not going to come back to criticisms again, enough said, just wanted to share good thoughts with you.
White is a color of a pearl, of snow, of a bride. We associate white with optimism, cleanness, innocence.
If not sure what to mix and match, take white… from toy to head.. all in white… White looks beautiful, rich, clean and gorgeous. People tend to turn their heads to those wearing all white, not black… It is a basic color in every wardrobe, a fresh element of every outfit, an easy to combine part of the look.
Here are some white inspirations from german ELLE, April Issue