I havn’t been on the THE SARTORIALIST blog for a while and was really looking forward to new inspirations as the new season just started and all fashions weeks just ended…
So it’s a dress up time!
But well, looking through his last 6 pages of posting I have realized that I am starving for fashion, as I have not seen one inspirational outfit but I am sick of… Junkies… 60 per cent of the pictures posted were just junkies .. People with messy untidy hair, chaotic und ugly outfits.. Outfits which look like they have been worn by another 10 junkies before this one was captured by the camera…
And I mean, junkies have always been there, let them be.. But I have never seen such a strong promotion of their image. I have even gone to the THE SARTORIALIST archive, to October 2008 to see the difference. And you know what? There is a major difference, only one junkie there. October 2013 is just a bunch of people who look either very normal-boring, or like they have been travelling in the same outfit for 4 days without a possibility for some fresh up. October 2008 is still a source for new ideas, here is my favorite (on the junkie background)..
It is a very smart commercial project within the fashion apparel world, based on getting maximum profit. Of course a creation of the junkie look requires less quality, it should look just shabby. This “shabby chic” bullshit.. It is easy to be and to follow. You can just wear some unmatching , dirty or old set of canvas, cannot even call it clothes, and the junkie image is complete. It is also important to have a messy hair, insane tattoos. Sure it is naturally easier to have untidy hair, so following has never been easier.
The quality of the apparel goes down, no one is striving for some esthetic look, clean and elegant appearance.. This is also promoted by the advertisement and even high fashion.
These two look very fashionable, don’t they..?
The best high fashion end junkie promoter is Vivienne Westwood. Her SP14 show is the best example. Models with the dirt all over their bodies and even in the face…
This last lady in a crazy maxi skirt print reminds me of a homeless woman, who lives on the rubbish pile, 2 blocks away from my grandma’s house. I swear, her cluttered hair, skirt and an oversized blazer look just like this model.
But London is known for a junkie look. No, not because it is a fashion capital. Because life there is very tuff and expensive, and people travel in a dirty tube for hours daily. After couple years of such live, they just done care what they look like and some confused think they are fashion…
People, clean up your looks, stop abusing my esthetical world perception!
Deréon is a fashion line from Beyoncé Knowles.. Yes, she has her own fashion line.. Yeah, I also did not know that.. Somehow I missed it.. Nowadays every second public person does something with fashion, wether they have an idea or not..
Well, I gotta say there are couple good fashionable wearable pieces I would wear.. Actually all pieces are absolutely wearable and fashionable enough.. The current collection includes quite a bit of leather and leather patches, leopard print, ethno colors and prints, feminine dresses..
Now Dereon comes to Germany, or better to say, the shoes from Dereon come to Germany. JustFab.de has an exclusive right to sell them now. The sire itself has a very attractive offers and couple pretty styles. Flats and wedges from Beyonce can be bought at a price of 59euro, which I think is very reasonable. So now check two things out> Beyonce’s collection and JustFab.com (you can also find from Avril Lavigne).
I cannot talk about all VOGUEs of the world, I prefer to comment on the one I keep in my hands right now. THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE. Who hasnt heard this, the most famous of all issues, advertised and promoted by the film “The September Issue” where Mrs. Wintour and her team prepare the shoots day and night, where everyone is so intimidated by an opinion of one person, where fashion and the issue itself are actually quite secondary, it is al about drama and wishes of one person.
Anyhow, let me comment on the German September12 Issue.
Well, this issue looks more like a big fashion catalogue rather than a big fashion magazine, I wonder what Mrs. Wintour publishes in her 900 pages, 3 times more advertising?? Any exciting shoots?
Amazing city of choices and variety, there is always going to be someone more fashionable, more weird or more tattooed than you are… Have never seen so many people with so many tattoos in one place, or maybe it’s just summer and they are very visible… Taking randomly pictures of places you realize how many cool attention worth people are actually walking around, and no matter how extravagant you think you look, some next to you proves you wrong in a moment. City with a free spirit, no fashion limits, zero prejudice.. Barca <3.
Looking at runways of Milan, NY, Paris and Berlin you unintentionally plunge into the past. I constantly see those old images, ancient paintings, pictures from the history books and black and white film scenes. Thereby all tendencies listed are based on past times.
NEW TENDENCIES: PAST TIMES
A variety of ideas and inspirations is breathtaking. Among those still life painting prints, 50th cuts, star wars outfits, architecture/mural decoration, wild furs and military looks. Marc Jacobs, PRADA, Balenciaga, Dolce&Gabanna have shown something very new, including extremely bizarre volumes, unexpected prints, oddly forgotten dandy nuances, feminine lines and styles.
Marc Jacobs used inspirations from 1920th, in his own Marc Jacobs as well as in Louis Vuitton collections. New, provocative, cosy but overly oversized silhouettes makes you wonder.. Specially seeing it next to the feminine, still life painting inspired Baroque collection of Dolce&Gabanna, where flowers and fruits, together with gold and lace recreate looks you might only see in a history book.
PRADA could not resist it to be a high light of a season, after being a brand of key pieces in Summer 2012, it looks like it will continue to dominate most of the fashion shoots in Winter again. There is no runway report, which would not mention its prints. Well, I prefer to comment of a cut and shape, rather than colors, as it is not the prints only which made a collection so extraordinary, it is actually a cut and details, i.e. a feminine tie, which are not new, but definitely rare.
A military theme was very much highlighted in Milan. Italians introduced a whole variety of military inspired looks, combinations and pieces, which turned out to be very close to a real military uniform.
Just as close as Milan got to a military thematics, Balenciaga brought up some clear inspirations from space. Even though it is the most obvious brand which took an inspiration from the sky, it is not the only one, which makes it a new trend, something we have not had for quite some time.
A simple and common male accessory, interpret new creates a competition to a beloved scarfs and makes those pretty little things one of the key must haves in the coming winter – ties.
Missoni, Prada, Miu Miu
One of the future winter trends I call “Star wars”. Pretty excited wether someone else calls it like this and points it out. All you have to do is either wear a print with a cosmic grade, or anything which would remind a spacesuit in form. Balenciaga introduced jumpers 2 i 1, combining both. Chanel made most an accent on a cosmic like make up, and Lanvin worked it through shapes.
Lanvin, Balenciaga, Chanel
Might much of a trend, but rather a must have of a Fall Winter Season – Mr. Furs Looking especially wild and exotic this season. Without rules and guidelines, the furrier the better. Lanvin is unsurprisingly has shown quite an amount of choice and selection. Boss Black has a very decent choice for those who don’t feel like exaggerated wildness is not a priority.
BOSS Black, Mulberry, Fendi, Victor and Rolf, Gucci
Still life painting
If you are not so much into star wars, maybe still life painting prints will be more of your thing. Majorly pushed by Dolce&Gabanna and interpreted in all sorts of ways by others. Prints combining with fur creates a new look – Matreshka, as it looks very Russia inspired, introduced by Temperley London.
Valentino, Balmain, Dolce&Gabanna, Stella McCartney, Temperley London
As old as a world, but miraculously popular, in leather, in wool, in silk or cotton, as a top, a dress, a skirt, a coat… Definitely a must have a season, highly copied and offered by mass producers and brands.
Tory Burch, Lanvin, Burberry, Ellie Saab, Dior
If an idea of fashion being a main political mirror, then we should expect a martial law this winter. Otherwise how else can you explain such a strong military inspiration coming from Milan runway. Most credits go to Salvatore Ferragamo who took a leading place in a military raid. Is is Milan getting ready to war?
Viktor and Rolf, Temperley London, Salvatore Ferragamo, Rodarte, Ellie Saab
Maxi length, complete mysteriousness, new sexy. A look can be found in many shows, making it a new tendency.
P.S. Painting goes back to 1896, totally corresponds to the theme back to the past
Valentino, Donna Karan, Dolce&abanna
There is always a boy|girl story in every season. We all have ‘boyfriend’ pieces in a wardrobe. Smoking, ties, brogues and other male prerogatives have become a must already a while ago. Coming season is not an exception. From a classy strict american style to a modern english interpretation, a la Dandy, popular again, like in 1938.
Donna Karan, Giorgio Aramani, Hermes, Stella McCartney
By far the most extravagant and truly new look. Oversized, overplayed, over exaggerated, over dressed. Looks like an old babushka in a cold weather.. Big, layered, with a funny hat and a massive bag, whatever she carries there.. Brought to us by Marc Jacobs, which is easy enough to recognize after seeing his both shows for Louis Vuitton and his own Marc Jacobs. Look which pleasures the eye when seeing it in a fashion magazine, not so sure about seeing it life, unless on Anna Dello Russo..
Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs
It must be clear where the trends is coming from: like the rest of them, it comes from the past. Decorations on the wall, which highlighted a wealthy state and an exceptional taste of the owner.
Barcelona is an amazing city with breath taking shopping opportunities. Of course, all are mostly excited about Zara and Mango, since it is a home land of the brands, with endlessss floors of choice. You won’t believe me but I was the most excited about Primark. (Yes, Germany doesn’t have it and I can only shop there when I go to London). God, I missed digging into the piles of t-shirts, those shoes for 5 euros and enormous lines at the cashier. So I took my time today and went shopping, well even though it was all for other people, it is still a fun thing to do (but only occasionally).
After visiting Zara I thought to myself again, that Zara is just an awesome example of how fashion business must be done. Being a trend setter and a trend getter, it produces quite an amount of its own design as well as copies of those we see on runways. I screemed of exctitement two month ago when it launched those Louis Vuitton flower cut tops and pointy shoes, Dolce&Gabbana lace bags and aka Chanel Tweed Jackets in colors. It regularly prints T-shirts with McQueen skulls and Union Jack Flack, a la Westwood. Well, yesterday I was very impressed that they also cought a trend with cats and created their own version of Victoria Beckham’s secondary line. My clients love those oversized cat prints and you gotta love those from Zara. Those dresses and tops are of course a bliss for those who know…
I found those “Prada’s” wedges and “Valentino” dress very pretty and worth having.
Zara has showed its excellent production speed and knowledge in a trend for pastels and neon. Not to mention that THAT leather tote bag appeared in every second fashion blog and was loved by many fashionistas right away. You can argue as much as you want if it is cool, if its quality is descent, but everyone shops there, people wearing real Louis Vuitton and Prada are also customers. I always say –