There is a thing LINE between fashionable and ridiculous, stylish and tasteless.. Every day we meet people who have crossed this LINE. My friend calls it ‘eyes cancer’. Well, I do believe that if you look at the tasteless people long and often enough, the diseases might actually get you. Fortunately, it is easy enough to avoid those pictures.
What I find truly unbearable is when the high fashion designers cross that LINE. As firstly, ridiculous and tasteless clothes hurts yours eyes and feelings anyway, whether it is on the street or on the runway. But I find it is even worth, because a bag design brought once on the stage, will follow you everywhere for at least several month, before the season ends. And secondly, it ruins my visual perfect imaginary vogue world. I open my Vogue and bAAMM, horror everywhere. Instead of liking and desiring those pieces I flip through pages in a hope to find something pleasing for the eyes….. and nothing comes, only design failures… ahhhh
So, where is this LINE, and is there any LINE at all? Till what extent are designers allowed to make fools of us? Fashion makes a bit of a fool of you anyway, as when you follow it, you become a victim of someone’s funny fantasies and sometimes even a lack of knowledge and a sense of beauty. People find a word ‘fool’ too harsh and often prefer to use a ‘clown’ words instead, but is it so much better? The most famous fashion lover ever, Anna Dello Russo admits herself, that she does have a role of a clown, as you have to wear whatever comes up and just hope for the best.
Most of the time, those dressings look at least pretty, at least they match to the Vogue and live in a harmony within photo shoots. You would wand those clothes, but of course you don’t have as it is too expensive, too pretty, a bit unpractical and way too fancy. Unfortunately, this season high end luxury fashion has crossed the LINE. Now, those pictures look just as ridiculous in Vogue as they do in live. Look at the last German Vogue shoot. There is only one positive thing about it. It proves, that I spotted all main Fall Winter’12 Trends right. Here you can find Babushka, and Overly Oversized.. additionally comes Harry Porter and couple more creepy figures, who look like druggies, but where is fashion? It is a famine of beauty. And it has only been 1 month only since a new fashion season started. I am desperate. Never I felt so unmotivated to unpack a new Vogue, to flip through runway shoots, to check those ‘favorite looks to copy’ again.
What I find even worse, is that designers feel comfortable enough to do that. Not only they make a world of fashion unattractive activity for amateurs, they seriously shake a passion for fashion of the faithful ones.
There is however still a plus side. There are still couple pretty collections in this immersive failure amount, which is easier to concentrate on and get a spotless look. I also am very excited to see which of this trends are going to be picked up and promoted by the mass suppliers like H&M, Zara or Mango. Those eventually define which trends are wearable and beloved, and which will never take a place in our wardrobes, not to mention our hearts.
To be fair, this is what homeless people look like in the Ukraine..They also have their stuff in those plastic squared bags.. :S
Look at those faces… Freja Beha, Kate Moss and Lana Del Rey.. Most popular and talked about figures these days. Only Adele is missing, would be interesting to see her as a campaign face..
Making a great commercial with an awesome design and a beloved face is a safe tool to attract attention to the goods and boost sales. I see at least 5 posts every day about one of these campaigns. I am sure it would not be the case if it was just some other unknown model. This is a psychological trick. When you see Kate Moss wearing MANGO, then suddenly MANGO looks more exciting, and colors are brighter, and designs look better, and then Kate combines clothes into cool outfits.. So you strive to have couple of those pieces (or even more) from that collection.
Brads like GUCCI and PRADA, however, use the opposite practice, taking unknown models, so they don’t distract consumers with their personality, and consumer can concentrate on the design and product, which is of course much stronger quality, design and context wise than those from ZARA or MANGO. Look at the PRADA campaign,however, and imagine it with Lana and Kate… For me it looks like some picture from a Gala evening, where girls wore some new outfits with extravagant prints… The whole flare of the campaign and a collection defining prints go missing..Lanvin took this strategy into account and decided to put an old and so much attractive women, looking at her I only want to concentrate on the outfit..
And now comes it to Louis Vuitton.. Well this brand is a big exception in many ways, there will be another post about it, but talking about the campaign, I wonder if is an exception as well.. They have combined people with mega strong personality, big achievements and advertising of a great product ? Moreover, LV did take unknown faces for their clothes campaign, as clothes is already eye catching enough.. Here, I can not doubt a personality of Mrs. Latynina and Mr.Phelps, so it leaves nothing else but doubting the product, i.e. big leather goods. Otherwise the whole campaign theory goes to hell.
Louis Vuitton has previously also featured Pelé, Diego Maradona, Mohammad Ali, Zinedine Zidane,André Agassi and Steffi Graf in their leather goods campaigns. All of the characters are better than the other one, even beloved Freja and Kate become just models next to them.
So here is my thought, is Louis Vuitton using the same campaign strategy as H&M, and what are the reasons??
Looking at runways of Milan, NY, Paris and Berlin you unintentionally plunge into the past. I constantly see those old images, ancient paintings, pictures from the history books and black and white film scenes. Thereby all tendencies listed are based on past times.
NEW TENDENCIES: PAST TIMES
A variety of ideas and inspirations is breathtaking. Among those still life painting prints, 50th cuts, star wars outfits, architecture/mural decoration, wild furs and military looks. Marc Jacobs, PRADA, Balenciaga, Dolce&Gabanna have shown something very new, including extremely bizarre volumes, unexpected prints, oddly forgotten dandy nuances, feminine lines and styles.
Marc Jacobs used inspirations from 1920th, in his own Marc Jacobs as well as in Louis Vuitton collections. New, provocative, cosy but overly oversized silhouettes makes you wonder.. Specially seeing it next to the feminine, still life painting inspired Baroque collection of Dolce&Gabanna, where flowers and fruits, together with gold and lace recreate looks you might only see in a history book.
PRADA could not resist it to be a high light of a season, after being a brand of key pieces in Summer 2012, it looks like it will continue to dominate most of the fashion shoots in Winter again. There is no runway report, which would not mention its prints. Well, I prefer to comment of a cut and shape, rather than colors, as it is not the prints only which made a collection so extraordinary, it is actually a cut and details, i.e. a feminine tie, which are not new, but definitely rare.
A military theme was very much highlighted in Milan. Italians introduced a whole variety of military inspired looks, combinations and pieces, which turned out to be very close to a real military uniform.
Just as close as Milan got to a military thematics, Balenciaga brought up some clear inspirations from space. Even though it is the most obvious brand which took an inspiration from the sky, it is not the only one, which makes it a new trend, something we have not had for quite some time.
A simple and common male accessory, interpret new creates a competition to a beloved scarfs and makes those pretty little things one of the key must haves in the coming winter – ties.
Missoni, Prada, Miu Miu
One of the future winter trends I call “Star wars”. Pretty excited wether someone else calls it like this and points it out. All you have to do is either wear a print with a cosmic grade, or anything which would remind a spacesuit in form. Balenciaga introduced jumpers 2 i 1, combining both. Chanel made most an accent on a cosmic like make up, and Lanvin worked it through shapes.
Lanvin, Balenciaga, Chanel
Might much of a trend, but rather a must have of a Fall Winter Season – Mr. Furs Looking especially wild and exotic this season. Without rules and guidelines, the furrier the better. Lanvin is unsurprisingly has shown quite an amount of choice and selection. Boss Black has a very decent choice for those who don’t feel like exaggerated wildness is not a priority.
BOSS Black, Mulberry, Fendi, Victor and Rolf, Gucci
Still life painting
If you are not so much into star wars, maybe still life painting prints will be more of your thing. Majorly pushed by Dolce&Gabanna and interpreted in all sorts of ways by others. Prints combining with fur creates a new look – Matreshka, as it looks very Russia inspired, introduced by Temperley London.
Valentino, Balmain, Dolce&Gabanna, Stella McCartney, Temperley London
As old as a world, but miraculously popular, in leather, in wool, in silk or cotton, as a top, a dress, a skirt, a coat… Definitely a must have a season, highly copied and offered by mass producers and brands.
Tory Burch, Lanvin, Burberry, Ellie Saab, Dior
If an idea of fashion being a main political mirror, then we should expect a martial law this winter. Otherwise how else can you explain such a strong military inspiration coming from Milan runway. Most credits go to Salvatore Ferragamo who took a leading place in a military raid. Is is Milan getting ready to war?
Viktor and Rolf, Temperley London, Salvatore Ferragamo, Rodarte, Ellie Saab
Maxi length, complete mysteriousness, new sexy. A look can be found in many shows, making it a new tendency.
P.S. Painting goes back to 1896, totally corresponds to the theme back to the past
Valentino, Donna Karan, Dolce&abanna
There is always a boy|girl story in every season. We all have ‘boyfriend’ pieces in a wardrobe. Smoking, ties, brogues and other male prerogatives have become a must already a while ago. Coming season is not an exception. From a classy strict american style to a modern english interpretation, a la Dandy, popular again, like in 1938.
Donna Karan, Giorgio Aramani, Hermes, Stella McCartney
By far the most extravagant and truly new look. Oversized, overplayed, over exaggerated, over dressed. Looks like an old babushka in a cold weather.. Big, layered, with a funny hat and a massive bag, whatever she carries there.. Brought to us by Marc Jacobs, which is easy enough to recognize after seeing his both shows for Louis Vuitton and his own Marc Jacobs. Look which pleasures the eye when seeing it in a fashion magazine, not so sure about seeing it life, unless on Anna Dello Russo..
Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs
It must be clear where the trends is coming from: like the rest of them, it comes from the past. Decorations on the wall, which highlighted a wealthy state and an exceptional taste of the owner.